The Funiculars of Valparaiso, Chile

funicular /few-nik-yoo-ler/ adj. (of a railway, esp. on a mountainside) operating by cable with ascending and descending cars counterbalanced – Oxford Compact English Dictionary

The Chilean Pacific seaport of Valparaiso, The City of Steps, has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2003. An important part of the heritage district is the collection of funiculars (or ascensors, as the locals call them) that connect the historic Upper and Lower Towns. To this day, this unusual means of transport provides a welcome alternative to those tired of trudging up and down the city’s famous steps all day long!

The funiculars of Valparaiso are very popular, as this line-up at Artillería shows

Between 1883 and 1916, around 30 funiculars (bizarrely, sources seem unsure of the exact number) were constructed to connect the businesses of the Lower Town with the residential districts on the hills above. Many of these still survive and are officially listed as National Monuments, although not all of them are currently in service.

Concepción (The Conception)

Constructed in 1883, Concepción is the oldest funicular in Valparaiso. It was built to connect the Lower Town with the British and German communities living on Cerro Concepción (Hill of the Conception). Climbing over 225 feet at an angle of 45º, Concepción remains one of the city’s most popular ascensors.

Concepción funicular can be seen in the middle of this shot

Ascensor Concepción from the Lower Town

Inside Concepción’s lower station

It’s alright, Sue, Concepción has been running safely for over 130 years!

Concepción’s upper station on Cerro Concepción

Reina Victoria (Queen Victoria)

The Reina Victoria funicular also climbs Cerro Concepción, at a slightly alarming gradient of 57º!

Looking up at Reina Victoria

The Reina Victoria carriages passing each other

Reina Victoria’s steep tracks

Reina Victoria’s winding wheel and controls in the upper station

On Cerro Concepción above Ascensor Reina Victoria

El Peral (Pear Tree)

Walking visits of Cerro Concepción often take in the neighbouring Cerro Alegre (Happy Hill). This hill is linked directly to the Lower Town via just one funicular, El Peral.

El Peral’s recently-renovated upper station

Looking down on one of El Peral’s tiny carriages

The El Peral funicular can be seen just to the right of Palacio Baburizza on Cerro Alegre

Artillería (Artillery)

The Artillería funicular is one of the most photographed in the city. At the northern end of the UNESCO district, it was built to connect the Lower Town with the old Naval College (now the Naval and Maritime Museum) on Cerro Artillería. Today its carriages continue to transport more than 30 passengers at a time to the top of Artillería, from where they are rewarded with fantastic views of the city and the bay.

The cable-linked cars of the Artillería funicular climb/descend Cerro Artillería

The upper Artillería station

View between the Artillería tracks

Classic view of the Ascensor Artillería

Inside the upper Artillería station

The winding gear at the top of Artillería

Inside one of Artillería ‘s two large carriages

Looking up Artillería ‘s tracks

Cordillera (Mountain Range)

Ascensor Cordillera climbs Cerro Cordillera between El Peral and Artillería. Those feeling energetic can match its climb of 200 feet at a gradient of 70º by using the flight of steps that runs beside the tracks.

Can you spot Cordillera funicular?

The steps heading up Cerro Cordillera are between the carriages and the grey, graffiti-covered wall behind

Villaseca (Dry Town)

Sadly, not all of Valparaiso’s funiculars are still working (and some have disappeared entirely). From the back of Cerro Artillería you get a great view of the Villaseca funicular, which climbs the adjacent Cerro Playa Ancha (Wide Beach Hill). Ascensor Villaseca is currently closed due to landslides making the track unsafe. Responsibility for the funicular was transferred to the Chilean government in 2012, so hopefully it won’t be too long before it is running again.

Ascensor Villaseca from Cerro Artillería

The currently abandoned Villaseca funicular

Villaseca’s upper station is in desperate need of renovation…

… As are its carriages

The Villaseca tracks crossing a road on Cerro Playa Ancha

Monjas (Nuns)

At 580 feet, the Monjas funicular is the longest in Valparaiso, climbing the hill of the same name, Cerro Monjas. Like Villaseca, it’s closed at the moment, but has been transferred to government control in a bid to get it operating once more.

The large, white temporary (hopefully) sculpture on its tracks makes the Monjas funicular easier to spot among the chaos of Cerro Monjas

Espiritu Santo (Holy Spirit)

Despite protests from locals, the Espiritu Santo stood closed for several years. Thankfully, it’s been restored and recently reopened, and today again carries passengers between the Lower Town and Cerro Bellavista (Hill of the Beautiful View).

Espiritu Santo from the sea

Larraín (named after Juan Larraín)

Along the hills that flank the eastern end of Valparaiso’s Lower Town is a row of four ascensors. Two are visible in the photo below.

Mid-way up this photo on the left you can make out the Larraín funicular, while on the right is the yellow tower of Ascensor Polanco

The Larraín funicular is another that is currently closed (this time for economic reasons), awaiting renovation.

A closer view of Larraín funicular, taken from the water

Polanco

The direct translation of ‘ascensor’ is ‘elevator’, even though most of the ‘ascensors’ in Valparaiso are actually inclined funiculars. The Ascensor Polanco is the exception, since it is an elevator in the true sense of the word. In fact,  according to what I’ve read, it’s one of only three totally vertical urban elevators in the entire World.

The lower entrance of Ascensor Polanco leads to…

… a tunnel that burrows 500 feet into the hillside to the bottom of the elevator shaft

The Polanco tower from outside the middle ‘station’

The bridge leading to the top Polanco entrance

The guard at the top of the Polanco tower caught napping!
(See my Chile Dogs post for lots more photos of Chile’s countless strays)

View across Valparaiso from the top of the Polanco tower

Barón (Baron)

The Barón funicular is the northernmost of the four ascensors at the east side of Valparaiso old town, and was the first in the city to be powered by electricity. As with Artillería on the far side of the UNESCO section of Valparaiso, the promenade beside the upper station provides stunning views across the bay and city.

The Barón funicular seen from the bay

One of Barón’s carriages on its way down the hill

Barón’s upper station

The view of Valparaiso from beside Barón’s upper station

This post was inspired by the photo theme of  Tracks from Cee’s Fun Foto Challenge. Despite the fact that on the surface this post is all about a means of transport that saves your legs, with all the walking we did between the funiculars, I also feel comfortable submitting it to Jo’s Monday Walk!

Me at Ascensor Espiritu Santo

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